Manila is the political and economic nerve centre of the Philippines, and it serves as a magnet for people from all over the country. For most visitors from North America or Europe, this metropolis does not seem to merit more than a few days' visit, after which the serenity of the provinces may seem all that much more attractive. Although a trip to Manila is taxing, it nevertheless gives the tourist important insights into the culture, history and current state of this island republic, insights that stem from its very wealth of contradictions.

In the sights of foreign conquerors Natives who settled at the mouth of the Pasig River in Manila have seen a great many rulers come and leave. The first to come were the Malaysians, who arrived in the Philippines during the pre-Christian era. Hindu and Buddhist leaders from Indonesia followed. Islam reached Manila at the end of the fifteenth century. The Muslim sultanate established in the mid-sixteenth century had been in existence for barely a decade when Spanish Catholic sailors appeared on the horizon.

Colonial Manila Miguel de Legaspi conquered Manila in 1571, declaring it to be the capital of the Spanish colony of the Philippines. Despite the ravages of World War II, when Manila was heavily bombed, traces of the city's colonial past are still in evidence, particularly in the Intramuros district. Intramuros, literally "within the walls", meaning within the wall enclosure of the city/fortress. The city centre, with its partially restored wall , is the site of a number of sixteenth-century buildings including Fort Santiago, Manila Cathedral and the church of San Augustin, the oldest in the city.

At the centre of power The heart of Manila is now elsewhere, in Makati, the modern commercial and banking quarter. Elegant high rises, gorgeous residential estates, super-modern shopping centres and numerous international hotels can be found there. The modern development of this quarter began in the mid-twentieth century. Like much of the growth in Manila, Makati is closely connected to the politically powerful Zobel de Ayala family. The family name is found throughout the city, on streets, buildings and public monuments.

They come here not only to pray Pasay City is located in the south-west of Manila across the superhighway from high-class Makati. On Wednesdays, Pasay is overrun with people. In Baclaran, the faithful crowd into Redemption Church, where weekly services are held in honour of the Virgin Mary. But one suspects that even more Manilans make their way to Pasay in order to patronize the neighbourhood's famous lech6n stands, known to be the best source of that quintessential Philippine specialty, roast suckling pig.

A bit of folk culture Throughout Manila, a light rail station is never far away. If your stomach is complaining after a feast of suckling pig, a gentle ride on this elevated railway is highly recommended. The trip back to town can also be made by Jeepney, of course, though it will be slower and more crowded. Jeepneys were originally former United States Army jeeps that had been converted into passenger vehicles with as many as fourteen canopied seats. These days, however, most Jeepneys come fresh from the production line. Skillful painting and ornamentation are a must have for genuine Jeepney status. Most have Catholic religious figures as their central theme, but they may include lighthearted comic strip images.

Many Jeepneys are so thoroughly covered in advertising that they resemble moving billboards, while others looks like temples on wheels. What's important for visitors to remember, however, is that Jeepneys follow specific routes, just like buses. It is always best to inquire about the route before getting on board.